When Ralph Lauren named James M. Jeter as the brand’s first Black creative director in 57 years, history was created and acknowledged. Jeter, a Morehouse alumnus, lost little time using his platform to create a vision that reframed American luxury through a more expansive perspective. Is this his first significant campaign?
A carefully planned partnership between Ralph Lauren and Morehouse & Spelman Colleges, staged in Oak Bluffs, a historic holiday resort on Martha’s Vineyard. Noted for being one of the few enclaves where Black affluence and leisure have long existed quietly and proudly. This collection was more than just a fashion moment; it was a reclaiming of the story. The campaign, dressed in double-breasted blazers, seersucker suits, and linen tuxedos, conveyed a striking message: Black greatness did not just happen. It has been here. And it’s finally being seen.
James M. Jeter: Redefining the Polo Legacy from the Inside Out
In a brand as steeped in American legacy as Ralph Lauren, the absence of a Black creative director for over 50 years spoke volumes — until Jeter broke the mold. Bringing not only his fashion expertise but a deep cultural narrative, Jeter’s appointment represented more than personal achievement; it marked a meaningful shift in how American luxury is understood.
This elevation was more than just a personal achievement; it represented a societal revolution. Jeter provided more than just creative skills; he brought vision. His appointment as director is a watershed moment for the business, recognizing how flawed the image of American luxury has been in the absence of Black tales. Through projects like Oak Bluffs x Morehouse x Spelman, he’s rewriting Ralph Lauren’s legacy from within, infusing new meaning into its traditional fabric.
The Look of Legacy: Dressing in Generational Wealth
The Oak Bluffs collection, born from the vision of Jeter, isn’t just a fashion drop. It’s a cultural archive, from cream cable-knit sweaters with Spelman and Morehouse insignias to double-breasted blazers, breezy seersucker trousers, and pristine linen tuxedos, each piece communicates a story of legacy and pride. The silhouettes evoke prep school polish, but are reinvented through the prism of Black history, combining the grace of tradition with the warmth of community. There’s something quietly compelling about a Morehouse “M” stitched where monograms once stood. This time, it represents something completely different.
Each design is steeped in the nostalgia of Martha’s Vineyard summers. Still, it also emphasizes that Black greatness has always existed. The mainstream media refuses to show it. These timeless, purposeful, and dignified visuals respond to decades of erasure. Instead of seeking affirmation, the Oak Bluffs collection reclaims the narrative: we’ve always been here, on the porches of beach homes, on the tennis courts, and in blazers handed down through generations. Ralph Lauren’s newest chapter does more than just style Black wealth; it finally highlights it.
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