In my over ten years of working in restaurant kitchens, I’ve cooked fish hundreds—maybe thousands—of times. I’ve read countless books on the subject. Some of it I’ve forgotten, but the techniques that stuck became part of my arsenal.
When I interviewed for my first executive sous chef role, I had no idea I’d be asked to cook three dishes on the spot. I was given an hour. One of the dishes was a salmon en papillote—something I remembered from one of those books.
It’s a surprisingly easy method, but not one many home cooks reach for. Today, I want to share three of my favorite fish techniques—from fillets to whole fish. Master any one of them, and you’ll not only level up your seafood skills but also impress at your next dinner party.
En Papillote (Steam-Roasting in Parchment)
Fish en papillote is essentially steam-roasting fish in parchment or foil (I prefer parchment) in a hot oven. It’s perfect for delicate, quick-cooking fillets like sole, flounder, snapper—or my personal favorite: salmon.
This is my go-to when I want something fast, flavorful, and mess-free. When done right, you get a tender, juicy piece of fish packed with aromatics in under 12 minutes.
Start by choosing your aromatics. I like a couple sprigs of fresh thyme, a whole garlic clove, and a knob of butter (or swap in olive oil if you want something lighter). Spray the parchment or drizzle 1–2 tablespoons of oil. I use good olive oil here—despite its lower smoke point, you’re not using direct heat, so the flavor stays intact.
Cut parchment just large enough to wrap the fillet. Lay the fish in the oil, toss gently to coat, then leave it belly-side up. Season with salt. If you like black pepper, go ahead—but I prefer using toasted whole peppercorns that I crush by hand. Top with thyme, the garlic clove (smash it with your palm or knife to release more flavor), and lemon wedges if you’re into that (I highly recommend it). Add a small piece of butter or a final drizzle of oil.
Fold the parchment like you’re sealing a letter, crimping the edges tightly to trap steam. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 8–12 minutes, depending on thickness. No flipping, no mess—just pull it out, open carefully, and serve.
Poaching
For leaner fish like cod, halibut, or haddock—types that dry out easily with high heat—poaching is the move.
I poach in either vegetable stock, clarified butter, olive oil (the top-shelf I get from fancy markets), or occasionally coconut milk. The key is controlling the temperature: between 140–160°F (60–71°C), just below a simmer.
Start by building your poaching liquid. If using stock, I add lemon, herbs, garlic, and whole peppercorns. A well-made stock already carries flavor, so these additions just bump it up. With clarified butter, I usually add the same aromatics but feel more freedom to adjust.
Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, then lower it to the target temperature. Slide in the fish—don’t crowd the pan. I keep it to two fillets max. Poach for 6–10 minutes. For whole fish, you’re looking at 15–25 minutes depending on size. Rest the fish on a towel, then season with salt.
Note: Don’t heavily salt your stock up front. As it reduces, the salt intensifies. Season late in the game to avoid overdoing it.
Salt-Crusted Whole Fish
This might be the least-used method among home cooks, but it’s one of the most dramatic—and rewarding. I reserve it for special occasions, not because it’s difficult, but because the payoff feels like an event.
You’re encasing a whole fish in a wet salt “dome” that bakes hard in the oven, forming a sealed shell. It’s like creating a mini oven inside your oven. The salt shell radiates even heat and traps moisture, so the fish cooks gently and stays incredibly juicy. Don’t worry—it doesn’t taste salty. The crust acts like armor, not seasoning.
Red snapper is my top choice, but branzino, sea bass, and trout also work well. Clean and scale the fish, then stuff the cavity with herbs and aromatics—my go-to: thyme, lemon, garlic, and peppercorns. These aromatics perfume the steam inside without overpowering the fish.
Crust ratio: 600g kosher salt + 2 egg whites + 1–2 Tbsp water. It should feel like wet sand.
Line a sheet tray with parchment and pack a ½-inch layer of salt to protect the bottom of the fish from scorching. Lay the fish on top, then bury it completely—except for the tail and one eye (which helps signal doneness).
Bake at 425°F (220°C):
- For a 1 lb fish: 18–20 min (target internal: 130°F / 54°C)
- 2 lbs: 25–28 min
- 3 lbs: Drop temp to 400°F and bake 35–38 min
If the crust browns too fast, reduce to 400°F after 10 minutes. Once done, rest the fish for 5 minutes to allow the juices to settle. Then, using the butt of a knife or a mallet, crack a line along the seam. Lift the top off like a lid. Peel off the skin with the salt crust, spoon out the fillets, and serve.
Try it with good olive oil, a vinaigrette, or just a squeeze of lemon.
These techniques may sound restaurant-level, but they translate beautifully to home cooking. Whether you’re cooking for yourself, someone special, or a room full of guests, they’re worth learning.
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