2024 has been another flop year for underrepresented models trying to walk the runway at some of the most sensationalized fashion shows. Less than 1% of New York Fashion Week models were plus-sized this year and Victoria’s Secret made a weak attempt at trans visibility, choosing two thin, white/white passing trans women to catwalk in underwhelming costumes during their lingerie reveal. Throughout all of these issues remains another disappointing fact — hair discrimination still runs rampant, yet overlooked, in the world of modeling and professional hair styling as a whole.
In the past two months, there’s been increasing discourse revealing the pressure Black models face to cut their hair, often forced to walk runways with a buzz cut. This trend has deep roots, and though discussions about it circulated last year, they eventually went silent.
These patterns exist within virtually all fashion and media productions including film and TV sets and modeling photoshoots. Black celebrities have detailed the frustration surrounding a lack of experienced hair stylists who work with textured hair, forcing actors into a limited selection of hairstyles.
To get a better understanding of the complex reasons and solutions surrounding hair discrimination in Hollywood and high fashion, we invited our friend and Emmy-nominated hairstylist Rukey Styles to offer some insight. Styles founded her own brand, DKEight, which provides hair restoration services and educational courses for people of all hair textures, welcoming clients of color.
With over two decades of hair styling experience, including on-set productions for Disney’s Sneakerella, Styles brings insider knowledge on hair representation in Hollywood to address its lack of resources for textured hair.
Styles explains that hair discrimination reflects a long history of overlooking and under appreciating the beauty of textured hair, especially for women of color. Such history extends as far back as the 13th Amendment.
In the decades immediately succeeding the 13th Amendment, which abolished slavery in the U.S., Black women straightened their hair with harsh chemicals and hot combs to fit in with European beauty norms.
In the 1960s, natural, textured hair was still frowned upon, with many white people deeming afros to be a sign of “uncontrolled and dangerous sexuality” among Black people. Since then, textured hair has become a hot topic in real-world politics, often revealing cracks in employment equity and educational biases when handing out dress code violations.
It was only five years ago that legislation was created to allow students to wear their hair in any fashion without fear of being punished and racially discriminated against.
This real-world history of disdain towards textured hair is what contributes to the lack of accommodations in the entertainment and fashion industry.
Hair discrimination in modeling and entertainment is damaging to inclusion because it conveys the message that, while diversity may be achieved by acting people of color, there is still a reluctance to fully accommodate them.”
Rukey Styles
For actresses on set, the options for styling hair are slim, even to this day. Monique Coleman said she had to wear headbands during filming for High School Musical, and Halle Berry has opened up about how her iconic pixie cut was a result of making her hair easier to style.
Meagan Good’s forehead was burned by an inexperienced hairstylist and Natasha Rothwell often bought her own hair supplies on set. No actress should have to bring their own materials for a movie they’re getting paid to be in.
All of this is to say that hair discrimination in the media industry, whether it’s modeling for film promos, walking the runway or acting, comes in many forms that remain concealed behind the scenes.
“I’ve witnessed these ongoing challenges firsthand through my experiences and conversations with peers and talent,” Styles says. “Some productions are making strides to hire diverse and skilled hair teams, but progress has been slow and inconsistent across the world. We still have a long way to go.”
One reason why hairstylists are often unequipped to work with textured hair on set is because of fear and intimidation. The novelty of working with new hair textures can make hairstylists feel nervous, as they are unfamiliar. Though these anxieties are valid, they shouldn’t hold hair stylists back from providing diverse services.
“Unlike a salon setting where a stylist might focus on a niche, industry stylists must be equipped to handle diverse clientele,” says Styles. “True inclusion and equity will be achieved when the entire industry values this versatility and prioritizes equipping all hairstylists with the skills they need to serve everyone effectively.”
Embracing diverse hair textures in the industry not only makes models and actors feel included in an authentic way, but it also promotes the appreciation for textured hair outside of media. Characters we see on our screens are supposed to resonate with us, and when people of color are disproportionately underrepresented, the media we’re consuming needs change.
“Representation in media is vital, as it influencers how we perceive ourselves and our heritage, particularly for younger generations,” Styles says. “When diverse hair textures are authentically represented, it broadens the understanding of what is possible for those who share similar backgrounds, empowering them to embrace their own identities without feeling pressured to conform to narrow definitions of beauty.”
Though hair stylists should take initiative to educate themselves on all hair textures, Styles says the responsibility of hair texture inclusion does not lie only on them. The loudest voices are those experiencing the discrimination themselves.
The push for change needs to come not only from us, but also from talent — models and actors — who must speak up to decision-makers.”
Rukey Styles
As these voices become louder, industry professionals are facing more pressure to do the right thing — to take the time and economic resources to fully and accurately represent diverse characters, allowing actors and models to embody their on-screen roles to the fullest.
Though industry professionals have said they feel there’s been some improvement, there are still many obstacles that prevent experienced hairstylists, especially those of color, from being employed to showcase their diverse skills on set. Industry leaders often hire their close friends to be hairstylists, even if they can’t cater to textured hair.
Thankfully, there are hairstylists of color like Styles who are outspoken about these issues. Their talent extends beyond knowing how to do textured hair, but also reflects a special cultural identity. This identity helps bring TV and film characters, modeling concepts and media visions to life, unleashing inclusive creativity.
“It’s rewarding to be part of celebrities’ glam for events and to witness their transformation into the characters they’re meant to portray,” Styles says. “I enjoy telling stories through hair.”
As more industry hairstylists advocate for themselves, so too do actors and models of color, making sure their hair is treated with the same care and thoughtfulness as straight or fine hair. Listening to these voices is crucial, and opens up many possibilities to use hair to tell compelling, beautiful and resonant stories.
What's Your Reaction?
